When it comes to brightening ingredients, we definitely trust the powerhouse vitamin C. This potent nutrient is packed with antioxidants that improve dull skin, protect skin from damage and free radicals, and increase collagen production. That being said, it’s no wonder that this ingredient is popular among skincare enthusiasts and users, and is incorporated into numerous skincare products in the market. 

Vitamin C is popular in serums and is developed with varying degrees of potency, depending on the user’s preferences. In addition, the vitamin C added into the development of these serums comes in different forms. The gold standard in skin brightening is L-ascorbic acid, which is the purest form of vitamin C.

With serums, users of any skin type can reap the most benefits out of this ingredient due to its rich potency. However, this active antioxidant, when used in its purest form, is known to be unstable and prone to oxidation, and for some skin, too sensitising.

What is Vitamin C Oxidation?

If you’ve owned a vitamin C serum formulated with L-ascorbic acid before, then you might recognise the changes in its appearance or even smell once it’s been opened after a few months. Sometimes, depending on how long the product has been on the shelf, it may have already turned dark yellow as soon as it is opened. Vitamin C starts to oxidise the moment it touches air, light and water – water being the most used ingredient for formulation. Once the oxidation process starts, the colour of the product becomes darker over time.

Oxidation is an inevitable process when formulating with pure vitamin C. It is  a chemical reaction when molecules react to oxygen, water, and light exposure, which results in a change in their compounds. When vitamin C becomes overly oxidised (dark amber/brown in colour), the serum loses its effectiveness, and you won’t be able to reap the benefits of the product.

How to Tell if Vitamin C is Oxidised?

When Vitamin C serums are developed, they typically have clear to light yellow colours (usually for higher concentrations), but as they oxidise, they gradually turn orange and brown. Generally, the serum is safe to use when it has a clear or yellow appearance, but once it turns orange or brown, it’s best to stop using the product. 

One of the first things you should observe when looking for a vitamin C serum is its packaging; the serum should be enclosed in a dark packaging that prevents light and oxygen from hitting the inside, and comes with an airless pump. Dropper bottles are not a good choice! This is because light and oxygen can speed up product oxidation and degrade the product. Other factors that can affect vitamin C oxidation include temperature, storage, and manufacturing date.

Is Oxidised Vitamin C Harmful to the Skin?

Depending on the vitamin C formulation and level of concentration, the serum will eventually oxidise. The vitamin C will have started to oxidise once it’s in contact with water during development of the serum, which explains why they appear oxidised upon opening. However, vitamin C serums are still safe to use even if it turns to light yellow or a yellow-ish colour. Once the texture turns dark orange or brown, that is the indicator to stop using the product and dispose of it. 

When vitamin C is fully oxidised (appearing as dark orange or brown in colour), it is converted into a pro-oxidant that may lead to inflammation, irritation, skin damage, and worsening of skin issues such as acne. So, when this happens, it defeats the purpose of vitamin C in improving the skin and preventing damage to the skin. It also may add oxidative stress to the skin and may add to the development of spots, and hyperpigmentation, and speed up skin ageing as well.

Ideal Vitamin C Usage and the Best Way to Maximise It

Once you open your vitamin C serum, it should be stored properly – preferably in a cool, dark place, and away from sunlight. Be sure to prevent leaving it uncapped for too long and make sure to seal it properly after use. You may also store it in the fridge to help preserve it and add a cooling sensation with each application. 

When choosing a vitamin C to help enhance your glow, choose serums that are stored in dark packaging, with a pH level ranging from 3 to 3.5, stabilised formulation of vitamin C with a potency ranging from 10% – 20% (the ideal concentration according to researchers), combined with complementary ingredients that help boost its effects such as ferulic acid, vitamin E, or niacinamide. Serums that contain below 10% concentration of vitamin C might not be as effective on the skin. Vitamin C serums are best applied in the morning before sunscreen to protect the skin against free radicals from UV exposure. 

The typical lifespan of a vitamin C serum spans 3 to 4 months after opening. However, it can only last for a few days if not properly resealed or stored and while exposed to high temperatures. You can prevent early oxidation of your vitamin C by properly storing it in a cool, dark place.

The Vitamin C We Recommend: CE3 Brightening Buffet with C+ Activator

Beauty Insider Beauty Awards Winner 2023
Category Award: Best Skincare 2023
Sub-Category Award: Best Anti-Pigmentation, Bloggers’ Choices Award

The Beauty Insider team frequently tests products, and we’re huge fans of vitamin C serums, so we were excited to try encorium’s CE3 Brightening Buffet! This multi-benefit serum is loaded with biocompatible antioxidants that rejuvenate the skin, fade dark spots, and improve skin texture. Unlike most pure vitamin C serums, its formulation is surprisingly gentle and does not leave a stinging sensation on most skin types. So, if your skin is dealing with stubborn hyperpigmentation, dullness, acne, and the overall condition of your skin, this serum might just be for you.

The CE3 Brightening Buffet serum is a multi-active serum that aims to boost the skin’s radiance from within, where it addresses common skin issues such as scars, dark spots, and uneven skin tone and texture. It gradually helps repair the skin to reveal a smoother, more radiant complexion!

This potent serum is combined with two types of vitamin E (Tocotrienols** and Tocopherol), ferulic acid, and three types of hyaluronic acid to enhance the performance of the l-ascorbic acid, protect the skin better from damage and premature ageing, and boost hydration to keep the skin plump and smooth. 

However, what makes this serum unique from its competitors is how the product maintains its maximum efficiency on the skin.

Where most serums come in a single product, the CE3 Brightening Buffet serum comes with a C+ activator. This activator is composed of 18% L-ascorbic acid powder that is then combined with the CE3 Brightening Buffet serum to activate the product. This activation process prevents early oxidation which decreases the efficiency of the product. In doing so, it also provides the skin with powerful antioxidant benefits to help achieve optimum results over time. The product is best used for 90 days for maximum effectiveness on the skin.

Where to Get encorium CE3 Brightening Buffet

The encorium CE3 Brightening Buffet with C+ Activator is sold at RM230.00 and is available online through the following channels below:

encorium Official Online Store

encorium Official Shopee Store

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